By Rose Murray Brown MW   Published in The Scotsman 6 August 2016

Chenin Blanc is the ultimate summer grape.  Its versatility offers a myriad of drinking styles from light crisp aperitif, richly oaked to delicately sweet from 30 wines tasted – here are our favourite twelve to suit all budgets:

CRISP LIGHT QUAFFERS
Western Cape, South Africa:  CAMBALALA RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2014   ***GOOD VALUE***
(£3.79 Aldi)
Aldi and Lidl offer Cape Chenin Blanc at the same price – here Aldi stole the show.  Don’t expect much depth of fruit for this price, but you get fresh apple and pineapple flavours and zestiness.  It claims to have a touch of Viognier and Chardonnay to add aroma and body: 12%

Western Cape, South Africa: WAITROSE FAIRTRADE CHENIN BLANC 2015
(£5.99 Waitrose)
The best supermarket Chenin Blanc in our tasting – clean, crisp and dry with citric aromas and a touch of honey on the palate.  They call this as ‘refreshing as a sea breeze’ – fresh easy versatile – ‘a good buy at this price’ said tasters; would suit anyone who normally drinks Sauvignon Blanc: 12.5%

DRY & FRUITY
Coteaux du Vendomois, France:  LE CARILLON DE VENDOME ‘COCAGNE’ CHENIN BLANC 2015   ***GOOD VALUE***
(£8.50 The Wine Society www.thewinesociety.com)
Anyone who normally enjoys Vouvray Sec should try this fascinating newcomer from little known Coteaux du Vendomois on the banks of the Loir (without an ‘e’; it is a tributary of Loire); lovely honeyed aromas, initially rich melony fruit refreshed by a blast of acidity like an electric current across the palate, good length for the price – a very characterful Chenin: 13.5%

Piekerniersklooof, South Africa: THE TEA LEAF CHENIN BLANC 2014
(£12 Woodwinters, Bridge of Allan & Edinburgh; Noel Young Wines, Cambridge)
Our tasters enjoyed this unusual Chenin with its pear and pineapple flavours, creamy texture and a distinct hint of tea.  Made naturally, using wild yeasts, from 70 year old vines entwined with old tea plants at high altitude (750 m) where both plants vie for nutrition; made by up-and-coming winemaker Donovan Rall, who trained with Cape wine heros Miles Mossop and Eben Sadie: 14% 
                                     

Western Cape, South Africa: DEVIL’S PEAK LIMITED EDITION CHENIN BLANC 2015   ***GOOD VALUE***
(£9.99 Virgin Wines www.virginwines.co.uk)
A high scorer with tasters who liked the vibrancy, freshness and fruity notes.  It ticks the box for those looking for an attractively dry easy-drinking Chenin Blanc with a delicate steely feel.  Made by up-and-coming Cape winemaker Marinda Kruger-Van Eck (known as ‘The Eck’) – it punches above its price level: 14%

Franschhoek, South Africa:  ALLEE BLEUE CHENIN BLANC 2014
(£9.99 Valvona & Crolla, Edinburgh)
Appealing for this who like Chenin Blanc with vanilla hints and light creamy palate.  Sundried fruits, dried mango and pineapple undertones, zesty – oak comes from half the fermentation time spent in 400 litre oak barrels (20% new wood); grapes are sourced from cool coastal Walker Bay and inland Franschhoek: 13.5%

RICH & TEXTURED
Swartland, South Africa: TERRE BRULEE 2013 Vincent Careme   ***STAR BUY***
(£10.95 The Wine Society www.thewinesociety.com)
Very popular with tasters.  Made by Frenchman Careme, who hails from Vouvray, now making wine in both France and his wife Tania’s home country, South Africa.  No surprise he headed to Swartland for his fruit.  This debut Cape Chenin Blanc from 40 year old vines on granite soils has striking minerality, generous mouthfeel, honeyed creamy notes, spicy hints and fresh finish.  Very good: 13%

Swartland, South Africa:  MULLINEUX KLOOF STREET CHENIN BLANC 2015
(£14.50 Berry Bros & Rudd www.bbr.com)
Another Swartland Chenin Blanc from 40 year old vines, made by Chris and Andrea Mullineux based in the delightful outpost of Riebeek Kasteel.  Improved depth of fruit than previous vintages I have tasted, but still a little green.  Herby, melon & pear aromas, pithy, minerally, needs time: 13.5%

Paarl & Swartland, South Africa:  TIM MARTIN ‘CHAD’ CHENIN BLANC 2014  ***STAR BUY***
(£18.99 Fine Wine Co, Edinburgh; Kirkness & Gorie, Orkney)
New producer Tim Martin sources from 30 year old dry-farmed vines in Paardeberg, he uses traditional method (basket press and wild ferment) and ages in 2000 litre Austrian oak.  Suit those who like rich mealy leesy characterful oaked Chenin Blanc.  Chad is the vineyard name; not an aperitif wine – serve with pork or chicken:  13%

Loire, France:  SAVENNIERES ‘FIDES’ 2012 Eric Morgat
(£39 Berry Bros & Rudd www.bbr.com)   
Massive leap in price for this fascinating barrel fermented Chenin (20% new oak) with rich mature buttery aromas, honeyed maturity and rich mouthfilling flavours from Savennieres’ schist soils: 14%
                             

OFF DRY
Loire, France:  VOUVRAY DEMI-SEC 2014 Chateau Moncontour
(£10 Marks & Spencer)
If you hate bone dry whites, this vivid refreshing Chenin Blanc has a touch of sweetness and very fine acidic balance on the finish.  Serve as an unusual aperitif or with a light apple tart: 11.5%

Loire, France:  COTEAUX DU LAYON 2015 Chateau de Champteloup
(£8.99 Majestic Wine)
Chenin Blanc from Layon’s steep slopes near the Loire, affected by noble rot but this is not a dessert wine; has a delicate honeyed sweetness with fresh appley flavours, spicy undertones and refreshing acid balance stopping it tasting cloying.  Serve with pork or cheese platter – good value: 12%     

                                        
Join Rose’s Bordeaux & Loire Masterclass at The Royal Scots Club, Abercromby Place, Edinburgh on Thursday 8 September from £42 www.rosemurraybrown.com