Fed up with the ‘international grapes’ Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon – try one of these interesting ‘indigenous grapes’ – native grapes from wine regions around the world offering a very different taste and flavour:

WHITES

Sicily: NOSTRU CARRICANTE 2020 Cortese

(£11.75-£12.50 Vino Fandango, Comrie; Aitken Wine, Dundee)

From the ancient eastern Sicilian grape, Carricante, which is rarely seen outside the island.  Originally from the slopes of Etna, it has delicious citric fruits, herby notes with green apple and a sharp refreshing acidity making it a perfect summer white.

Georgia: GLEKHURI KISI QVEVRI 2019 Teliani Valley

(£20 Drinkmonger, Edinburgh & Pitlochry)

Kisi is one of Georgia’s 525 indigenous grapes – one of its best whites and very suited to the traditional qvevri winemaking with six months skin contact in buried amphora clay pots (qvevris).  Light apricot, white pepper with light tannins and dry finish.  A gentle introduction to the ‘amber’ style.

Portugal: ENCRUZADO 2021 Quinta dos Roques

(£21 Buon Vino; Noble Green; Roberts & Speight)

Quinta dos Roques are the best producers of Encruzado grape in Dao region, a forgotten inland region with a temperate climate and granitic soil.  Not dissimilar to Chardonnay with its citric fruits and affinity with oak.  An elegant rich intense version of one of Portugal’s best white grapes.

Hungary: ORGANIC DRY FURMINT 2021 Grof Degenfeld

(£14.50 Best of Hungary)

The versatile Furmint grape produces some of Hungary’s top quality wines in its homeland, Tokaj wine region, from sparkling, dry whites to intensely sweet whites.  This dry Furmint is very refined, approachable and well-priced – with a lemon, honey, nutty depth with firm acidity which often reminds me of Chablis.

Greece: AFOURA ASSYRTIKO 2021 Anhydrous

(£37 Fine Wine Portobello)

Santorini’s Assyrtiko grape produces sensationally good dry whites with rich intensity and depth in oaked examples.  Winemaker Lefteris Anagnostou at Anhydrous winery ages this for 10 months in 1000 litre barrels (afoura) and clay amphora to enhance its complexity.  Superb minerally depth with honeyed notes and freshness typical of 2021 vintage.

Romania: TAMAIOASA ROMANEASCA 2020 Prince Stirbey

(£11.95 The Wine Society)

Planted in Romania for 2000 years, this unusual grape is considered indigenous – but was originally brought to Dragasani by Greek settlers as a version of Muscat Blanc.  Quite exotic floral aroma with elderflower and basil with zesty cantaloupe melon flavours and sweet sour notes.

REDS

Italy: SUSUMANIELLO SALENTO ROSSO 2020 Vallone

(£9.50 The Wine Society)

This robust earthy spicy red scored highly in our recent Puglian tasting for its incredible value for money – made from Susumaniello, a rare grape grown near Brindisi in Italy’s heel.  The name may derive from ‘somarello’ meaning donkey, referring to the load this variety is able to bear.  It certainly has the kick of a donkey.

Romania: CURIOUS PARALLEL FETEASCA NEAGRA 2020 Cramele Recas

(£10.99 Virgin Wines)

From Banat in western Romania where this dark-skinned native grape has been grown since pre-phylloxera times.  Loved its plummy, sweet blackcurrant fruits, warm spicy palate and soft tannins.  One of the most popular wines at our recent Foodies Festival tasting.

Bulgaria: MAVRUD 2018 Edoardo Miroglio

(£13.95-£15.80 St Andrews Wine; L’Art du Vin; Roberson Wine)

Italian textile manufacturer-turned winemaker Miroglio grows Bulgaria’s famous native Mavrud in Eastern Thracian valley which he believes is similar to Burgundy.  His viticulturist Alberto La Rosa has experimented with Mavrud clones with great success: this clonal blend has wild berry fruits, meaty spicy smoky with soft tannins.

Greece: XINOMAVRO 2019 Thymiopoulos

(£13.99 Majestic Wine)

From the master of Xinomavro grape, Apostolos Thymiopoulos.  This native Macedonian grape grows at its best in Naoussa.  Dark cherry fruits, quite ethereal and elegant, medium bodied with fresh tart acidity to liven the palate – tastes like a baby Barolo.

Spain: EXTREME BOBAL 2020 Altolandon

(£11.25 Co-op)

Bobal means ‘bulls head’ referring to the shape of the bunches.  Native grape to Utiel-Requena near Valencia, this organic example comes from Manchuela.  Loved its bright cherry fruit, earthy tobacco notes and velvet smooth tannins.  Suit those who normally drink Merlot.

 

Sicily: FOUND NERELLO CAPPUCCIO 2021 Cantine Settesoli

(£7 Marks & Spencer)

From a grape rarely seen on its own – the name Cappuccio comes from the ‘hood’ of leaves sheltering the grapes.  This Etna grape is usually found blended alongside its cousin Nerello Mascalese.  Quite rich raisiny with licquorice and plums – a big bold wine with delightful savoury edge.

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By Rose Murray Brown MW   Published in The Scotsman 2 Sept 2023