If you mention the word Washington – people immediately think of the US capital Washington DC.  The ‘other’ Washington is Washington State – a vast region just north of Oregon in the Pacific Northwest of USA.  It is now America’s second largest wine region after California.

For those who like wines with big bold flavours but a refined elegant structure – this is an exciting region to explore.  Ideally situated on the 46 degree north parallel’s ‘sweet spot for vine growing’, it has up to 17 hours of summer daylight, a dry climate east of the Cascade mountains with ample irrigation water and cooling winds from the vast Columbia River, an incredible mix of basalt, gravel and loess soils – and the all-important big diurnal temperature shift to retain acidity in grapes.

This is proving a land of opportunity for winemakers – attracted by cheaper land prices than California or Oregon, allowing for experimentation and exploration. The rise of Washington State’s wine region has been meteoric.  In the 1970s there were just 10 wineries.  In 1993 there were just 11,000 acres of vineyards.  Today there are over 1000 wineries and 60,000 acres.  At one time there was a new winery opening every week.

So why have we not heard about Washington State wines?  Two reasons.  Firstly, Oregon is known for its Pinot Noir, Finger Lakes for Riesling and California for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.  Washington State is not known for one grape, so finds it hard to penetrate price-sensitive export markets although wines are starting to trickle into the UK.  Secondly, they have a healthy domestic market around Seattle happy to soak up local wines – even though some remote AVAs like Walla Walla are four hours drive away.

We should embrace Washington State for its immense diversity – it has 80 different varieties planted – and this has doubled in the last few years.

My favourite reds (which make up 60% of plantings) are the elegant Syrah from Walla Walla, refined Gamay from Columbia Valley and deep powerful Cabernet Sauvignon from Red Mountain – but you can also find Merlot, Lemberger, Grenache, Mourvedre, Malbec and more.  Amongst the whites, Chardonnay and ‘dry’ Riesling dominate, but look for varietals like Chenin Blanc, Albarino, Gruner Veltliner, Viognier, Roussanne, Picpoul and even Furmint.

What I like about this region is its energy and spirit – and the elegance of its wines.  Admittedly it is dominated by one huge winery Chateau Ste Michelle which accounts for over 50% of production, who recently announced reducing grape requirements down by a crushing 40% which will be devastating for growers.

90% of Washington’s wineries are family-run artisan producers making less than 5,000 cases per year – so there is plenty to discover from Syncline in Columbia Gorge, Gramercy and Grosgrain in Walla Walla to Hedges and Kiona in Red Mountain.  Renowned international winemakers like Ernie Loosen (Eroica) and Piero Antinori (Col Solare) have also set up joint ventures here.

The names of its 20 AVAs (appellations) are wonderfully descriptive.  Goose Gap, Candy Mountain, Snipes Mountain, Ancient Lakes, White Bluffs – and my favourite, named by a Scottish pioneer, Horse Heaven Hills.

Washington State is a young wine region with youthful vines and plenty of challenges (with its extreme continental climate) – but there is plenty of room for growth and exploration: as winemaker Charles Smith says: “Washington State is in its infancy…so much dirt that has never been turned over”.

They call Washington State ‘New World in spirit and Old World in style’ – and if you taste the wines you can see why.

WHITES

Columbia Valley: KIONA CHENIN BLANC 2021

£15 Ally Wines

Chenin Blanc with a touch of Viognier and Roussanne to lift aromas principally Red Mountain fruit, where the grape grows well with bright acidity and rich citric fruits.

Columbia Valley: CHARLES SMITH ‘KUNG FU GIRL’ RIESLING 2020  

£17.99 Virgin Wines

Upfront fruit with apricot and mango dominate with zippy acidiy, off dry palate and rich texture; moderate 12%.

Walla Walla: GROSGRAIN PHILIPS VINEYARD ALBARINO 2021

£26 Ally Wines

Spicy textured zesty citric example of this Spanish classic – part fermented in concrete egg, barrel and stainless steel.

Ancient Lakes: CHATEAU STE MICHELLE ‘EROICA’ XLC DRY RIESLING 2018 ***STAR BUY***

£29 Fine Wine Portobello

Serious take on German dry ‘GG’ Riesling, made by Bob Bertheau and Ernie Loosen in northerly Ancient Lakes: rich intense texture from extended lees.

REDS

Yakima Valley: CASCADIA SYRAH 2020

£15.99 Virgin Wines

Ripe plummy Syrah with clove and cinnamon notes, smooth soft texture – big bold but elegant example from the region’s oldest established AVA.

 

Columbia Gorge: SYNCLINE GAMAY NOIR 2019

£27 Ally Wines

One of the most elegant Gamays made in USA with redcurrant fruits, spicy and slightly minty – from biodynamic winegrower James Mantone.

Columbia Valley: L’ECOLE NO 41 MERLOT 2019

£34 The Wine Treasury; Old Bridge Wine Co

Smoky cedary Merlot with hints of dark plums from one of the pioneering wineries of Walla Walla; a clever blend of four AVAs.

Horse Heaven Hills: DOUBLE CANYON CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017

£30 Wanderlust Wine

From warm windy Horse Heaven Hills, this Cabernet has power, intensity and rich cassis fruits.

Columbia Valley: GRAMERCY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 ***STAR BUY***

£41 Stannary Wine

Elegant powerful with beautiful balance and silky tannins – from one of Walla Walla’s best producers.

Join Rose’s Champagne v Sparkling tasting + buffet at Rufflets Hotel St Andrews Fri 17 Nov www.rosemurraybrown.com

By Rose Murray Brown MW  Published in The Scotsman 30 September 2023