Riesling is a much-maligned grape – often written off as being too sweet and sickly – yet there are so many superb examples of crisp dry Rieslings now available on our shelves from all over the world.

In my opinion the very best dry Rieslings still hail from Alsace in France, Mosel in Germany and Wachau in Austria – but Clare and Eden Valley in South Australia and Marlborough in New Zealand can offer surprisingly intense fresh styles in the southern hemisphere – as can Washington State in Pacific Northwest and the Finger Lakes in New York State in the northern hemisphere.

DRY RIESLING

Alsace, France: MIDELBERG RIESLING 2020 Boeckel (13%) ***STAR BUY***

£10.50 reduced from £11.95 The Wine Society

If you want to discover Riesling’s earthier savoury dry side, this organic wine made by Thomas Boeckel in Mittelbergheim in the Bas-Rhin on the eastern slopes of the Vosges mountains really offers depth of character, minerally flavour and rich texture for the price.

Clare Valley, South Australia: JIM BARRY ‘THE LODGE HILL’ DRY RIESLING 2022 (12%)

£11.99 Majestic Wine

Clare Rieslings can be pricey, but this is superb value from one of the top producers in the region from a vineyard in the eastern ranges of Clare Valley.  Precise limey fruits, quite edgy, very dry, almost slatey, minerally with grapefruit hints – sleek and approachable.

Niederosterreich, Austria: THE SOCIETY’S AUSTRIAN RIESLING 2022 Wess (12%)

£9.95 The Wine Society

Austria is home to superbly rich weighty Rieslings, but for newcomers to Austrian Riesling this Decanter gold medal winning example from Krems in Lower Austria is crisp dry and delicate in style – a good introduction.  With generous citric fruits on the palate and moderate 12% alcohol – it is great value at this price. 

Marlborough, New Zealand: HUNTERS RIESLING 2022 (12%) ***STAR BUY***

£16.99 Laithwaites

Very popular with tasters who remarked on its ‘zestiness’ and ‘precise acidity’.  This is a very dry Riesling, but don’t let that put you off.  It is made by Jane Hunter, one of Marlborough’s pioneers, who excels at Riesling – I loved its green apple fruits, sappy juicy palate and lingering length.

Alsace, France: ROCHE GRANITIQUE RIESLING 2019 Zind Humbrecht (13%)

£31 Drinkmonger, Edinburgh

Serious dry Riesling from one of Alsace’s top biodynamic producers.  More mineral than fruit on aroma, plush generous fruits with a long dry finish – made from 37 year old vines grown in a warm lower section of the famous Grand Cru Brand vineyard near Turckheim.

Eden Valley, South Australia: PEWSEY VALE THE CONTOURS RIESLING 2016 (12.5%)

£29 Berry Bros & Rudd; Nickolls & Perks

From vineyards high above Barossa, this famous vineyard was first planted by Englishman Joseph Gilbert in 1839 and named after Pewsey in Wiltshire.  Light lemongrass notes, clove oil and lime marmalade flavours with a long dry finish – quite delicate for Australian Riesling.

Finger Lakes, USA: HJ WIEMER DRY RIESLING RESERVE 2019 (12.5%)

£27 Wanderlust Wines

From grapes grown in three vineyards around Seneca Lake, USA’s second deepest lake.  A fruit forward example of dry Riesling with citric notes and a dash of honey – very full palate and long lingering dry finish.

Washington State, USA: CHATEAU STE MICHELLE ‘EROICA’ XLC DRY RIESLING 2018

£29 Fine Wine Company Portobello

This is the best Riesling I have tasted from USA.  It hails from Evergreen vineyard in northerly Ancient Lakes east of Seattle, made by two famous winemakers: Bob Bertheau of Chateau Ste Michelle and Mosel super-star Ernie Loosen of Dr Loosen.  Serious take on German dry ‘GG’ Riesling with floral aromas, bright limey fruit and rich intense texture from extended lees contact.

Wachau, Austria: RIESLING LOIBEN 2018 Pichler Krutzler ***STAR BUY***

£22 Raeburn Fine Wines

Pichler-Krutzler’s entry level village Riesling from parcels right next to the river Danube in the Loibner basin – grown in a very warm vintage.  Bright apricot fruits, very ripe juicy, racy, minerally depth, lively fresh ripe acidity with long length of flavour.

 

OFF DRY RIESLING

Clare & Eden Valleys, South Australia: PIKES HILLS & VALLEYS RIESLING 2022 (9.5%)

£14.95 Fine Wine Co Portobello

From a mix of Clare and Eden Valley – lime, lemon and toast with honeyed undertones.  The hint of residual sweetness on the palate is balanced with fresh crisp poised acidity – beautifully made by winemaker Steve Baraglia.

Mosel, Germany: RIESLING KABINETT 2021 Dr H Thanisch (10%)

£19.85 Corney & Barrow

From a historic winery run by 11th and 12^th generation of the Thanisch family with mother Sophia in charge and daughter Christina now winemaker.  Their cellars are below their elegant riverfront villa in Bernkastel with vineyards around Kues on the Mosel’s left bank. Loved its mellow supple lime fruits and scintillating juicy freshness – with an attractive delicacy of touch.

Mosel, Germany: THORNICHER ST MICHAEL FEINHERB RIESLING 2022 (11%) ***STAR VALUE***

£5.29 Lidl

Astonishing price for such a fine Riesling – loved its grapefruit and lime fruits, hint of spritz to freshen the palate, honey gentle sweet notes, moderate alcohol (11%) and decent dry finish.  Well done Lidl.

 

Join Rose’s Escorted Wine Tour to Chile, Argentina & Uruguay in January 2024 www.rosemurraybrown.com

By Rose Murray Brown MW   Published in The Scotsman 14 October 2023