By Rose Murray Brown MW   Published in The Scotsman 21 November 2020

 

2020 is a year Australian winemakers will not forget, having endured the challenges of drought, fires, smoke damage, floods and now disease.  It is time to spare a thought for those who lost vines or homes in this turbulent year.  Luckily for those vines which have survived, 2020 vintage has proved remarkably good in many regions.  Raise a glass to vintners down-under and enjoy this selection of Australia’s diverse white wines designed to suit all budgets.
 

UNDER £12

Riverland, S Australia: YALUMBA ORGANIC VIOGNIER 2019 (13.5%)
£9.99 Tesco; Waitrose; Aitken Wines
Attractive savoury herby style of Viognier from an organic grower in the warm Murray River area of Riverland.  A touch pricier than Yalumba’s Y series Viognier, but I loved the saline undertones, juicy earthiness and touch of leesy richness.  This unoaked aperitif style Viognier is crafted by the great Viognier guru, winemaker Louisa Rose, who reckons that due to its lush succulent texture and low acidity, Viognier is a white wine for people who prefer reds.

Clare Valley, S Australia: JIM BARRY LODGE HILL RIESLING 2019 (12%)
£10.99 Majestic Wine; £11 Co-op
From one of Clare Valley’s highest vineyards at 480m which Peter Barry bought over 40 years ago to add to his impressive vineyard collection.  Weirdly this delicate Riesling is grown alongside hefty Shiraz on similar loam, clay and slate soils.  This is a cracking price for Clare Riesling.  Lime and wild flower aromas, fresh zingy acidity with a saline edge and hint of spice.  Note the moderate alcohol for Australia.

Riverina, New South Wales:  DE BORTOLI 17 TREES PINOT GRIGIO 2020 (12%)
£6.99 introductory offer – £9.99 Waitrose
De Bortoli used to plant 17 trees for each company vehicle to offset carbon emissions, now they also plant a tree for every 6 bottles of this range sold, so you can do your bit to protect biodiversity whilst enjoying their wine.  Peach and jasmine, zippy fresh version of Pinot Grigio with a splash of Riesling to lift the fruit.  Creamier in texture and fruitier than many commercial northern Italian Pinot Grigios – it works better with a creamy vegetarian pasta dish than as an aperitif. 
 

UNDER £20

McLaren Vale, S Australia: OUR FATHERS ‘JUST LIKE HEAVEN’ ROUSSANNE / GRENACHE BLANC 2020 (13.5%) ***STAR BUY***
£16 bt www.ourfatherswines.co.uk
Just like heaven is a very apt title for this fabulous new Rhone-style blend crafted by winemaker Giles Cooke MW, who named the wine after his wife’s favourite song.  Very impressively Cooke gives all profits from the sale of this wine to charity.  Bright gold, rich honeyed nose with pearskin and bruised apple notes, very rich fleshy textural palate, but still refreshing with elegant acidity and dry finish; wild fermented in barrels and concrete eggs.  Proof that Australia can make very elegant stylish whites from tricky Rhone varietals.

Adelaide Hills, S Australia: SHAW & SMITH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2020 (12.5%)
£15-£16.99 Majestic Wine; Henderson Wines; Luvians; Slurp
There are not many Sauvignon Blancs available from mainland Australia.  Over 30 years ago Shaw & Smith surprised the world with their sleek Sauvignons from Adelaide Hills, one of Australia’s coolest regions. This sleek unoaked Sauvignon is softer and richer than Loire or Bordeaux and less pungent than any Kiwi, but it has lovely limey fruit, soft leesy finish and moderate alcohol for down-under.

McLaren Vale, S Australia: BRASH HIGGINS ‘CHN’ CHENIN BLANC 2018 (13.5%)
£19.99 reduced from £23.99 All About Wine; £20 Vinvm; £23 Strictly Wine
A wine to suit Vouvray enthusiasts.  This Chenin Blanc is grown in white beach sands vineyards in the highly prized Blewitt Springs area of McLaren Vale near Adelaide.  Winemaker Brash Higgins’ fourth vintage is one of his best yet with honeyed, nutty richness, touch of salinity and lemony notes.  Rich heady quite oaky for those who like Chenin Blanc’s richer side.
 

UNDER £30

Margaret River, W Australia: FLAMETREE SRS WALLCLIFFE CHARDONNAY 2018 (13%)
£29 Woodwinters; Noel Young Wines
This vibrant flinty Chardonnay stood out in a line-up of Margaret River Chardonnays.  Winemaker Cliff Royle grows the region’s unique Gingin Chardonnay clones in Atticus vineyard in Wallcliffe area south of Margaret River, 18km from the Indian Ocean.  He uses high grape solids and natural ferment in 40% new French oak puncheons.  Loved its struck match nose, savoury minerally style, mouthwatering citric fruit and light oak.  Made in the textbook 2018 vintage, it combines ripeness and tense acid levels.

Clare Valley, S Australia: GROSSET SPRINGVALE CLARE RIESLING 2018 (13%)
£24 The Wine Society; £23/£26 Laithwaites
I have long been a Grosset groupie.  Brilliant Jeffrey Grosset produces Australia’s most intense powerful long-lived Rieslings from his Clare Valley base.  Springvale vineyard is an odd shape, but more unusual is its loam over limestone and slate and the rare mix of Riesling clones that Grosset grows there.  Grosset’s Rieslings need time, but this is approachable now. Fine lime & herb aromas, minerally with Grosset’s characteristic tautness, poised lemon flavours, zippy zesty, long dry finish.

 

UNDER £50

Margaret River, W Australia: VASSE FELIX HEYTESBURY CHARDONNAY 2018 (13%)  ***STAR BUY***
£43.50 Specialist Cellars; Farr Vintners; Fine & Rare Wines
Winemaker Virginia Wilcox of Vasse Felix, Margaret River’s oldest winery, is trying to ‘restrain with power’ in this 2018.  Her flagship Heytesbury Chardonnay is a masterclass in restraint and elegance. Smoky nose, layers of complexity with Wilcox’s characteristic al dente texture, fine acid line and tension.  Superb Chardonnay, but if it’s too pricey try Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay (£14.99 Majestic Wine) a good introduction to Wilcox’s style.

Tasmania: TOLPUDDLE COAL RIVER VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2018 (13%)
£49.99 Vinvm; £48 Vincognito for 2019 vintage
Move over Burgundy, here comes Tasmania.  My favourite Chardonnay and Pinot Noir producer on this dynamic island is Tolpuddle vineyard, owned by Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith.  Named after Tolpuddle Martyr convicts sent from England to Tasmania, whose leader George Loveless worked on a vineyard. Try this tangy lemony truffley biscuity savoury style of Chardonnay lined up against your favourite Meursault.

Join Rose’s Christmas Classics virtual tastings on Fridays 11 & 18 December 6.30pm in association with Raeburn Fine Wines: www.rosemurraybrown.com