By Rose Murray Brown MW   Published in The Scotsman 24 June 2017

Imagine the beautiful scenery of Switzerland, a touch of Italian rustic charm and a thrilling selection of racy minerally dry white wines bearing close resemblance to New Zealand’s vivid wine styles.  Put all this together – and you have Slovenia. 

Slovenia is a forgotten country when it comes to UK wine drinkers.  That is because there are just a handful of Slovenian wines on our shelves – and those that are here are not cheap – but it is an interesting wine country for those looking for a change.  For anyone looking for an interesting wine holiday, it is also one of the most beautiful and prosperous Balkan countries I have visited – the picturesque mediaeval town of Piran on the Slovenia’s tiny Mediterranean coast was my particular favourite (pictured right).

It is like a melting pot of cultures here, bordering four countries: Italy (to the west), Austria (north), Croatia (south) and Hungary (north east) – all these influence Slovenian wine styles.  Slovenia is often confused with Slovakia, a country to the northeast on the Danube – which is even less well known for its wines.

Slovenia was the first Yugoslav country to declare independence in 1991.  Since then, it has revitalised its wine industry, shaking off its mass-market Lutomer and Laski Riesling image, improving the quality of its 25,000 hectares of vineyards – ready to offer something vibrant, refreshing and new.

Each of its three distinct wine regions are influenced by neighbours.  Primorska on Slovenia’s western border, by north east Italy and the mediterranean.  Posavje in the south east, by neighbouring Croatia, and Podravje in the far north east by Austria.

Today, Primorska in the west, near the coast and Italy’s Friuli region, is the most dynamic with a host of international grapes like Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay to Pinot Gris grown in the rolling foothills.  But the more interesting wines come from native grape, Ribolla Gialla, an ancient grape dating back to 1289.  Ribolla almost disappeared after phylloxera, but is now being revived on Slovenia’s best slopes on the Goriska hills in Brda, one of Primorska’s four zones. 

Inland with a more continental climate is Slovenia’s smallest and most traditional region, Posavje, along the Sava river near Croatia.  Most of its light ‘cvicek’, low alcohol spritzy reds, are drunk locally along with Posavje’s sharp whites and earthy fizz.

Thirty years ago Slovenia’s largest and most easterly region, Podravje, was its best – but it rested on its laurels with volumes of Laski Rizling.  Now, in the Stajerska zone of Podravje along the Drava river, Sauvignon Blanc, Furmint (called Sipon) and ‘real’ Riesling (called Rizling) are being revived by new dynamic wineries like Verus Vinogradi, who have taken over an old ex-state winery in Ormoz based right on the northern Croatian border.  Further north nearer the Austrian border, the historic Dveri-Pax winery is another of Slovenia’s best (see their Furmint pictured right).

In the north east corner, just across the border from Austria’s Burgenland, is the Prekmurje zone of Podravje.  This is the home of vivid dry limey Rizling (real Riesling), botrytised sweet dessert wines and even Ice wine – Erich Krutzler at Marof winery is clearly showing the region’s potential.

Crisp dry whites is what Slovenia does best – so no surprise that all the Slovenian wines available in the UK are white.  You have to visit the country to sample its small volume of excellent handcrafted reds from Pinot Noir, Refosco and Blaufrankisch.

SLOVENIA TASTE TEST:
                                                   
Primorska, Slovenia: KRASNO SAUVIGNON BLANC/RIBOLLA GIALLA 2016 (13%; £7.99/£8.99 Majestic Wine)   STAR VALUE BUY
From one of Slovenia’s leading co-operatives in Brda, in Slovenia’s most westerly region neighouring north east Italy.  Fresh appley aromas, hints of green fruit flavours with herby spicy undertones.  If you normally enjoy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, this unusual crisp lean dry blend might well appeal.  Great value too compared to Kiwi whites.
               

Podravje, Slovenia: VERUS DRY RIESLING 2015 Verus Vinogradi (13%; £12.99-£13.50 www.therealwinecompany.com; Woodwinters, Edinburgh & Bridge of Allan; Field & Fawcett)
One of the spiciest Rieslings I have tasted.  This calls itself dry but it has lime and floral notes and a lot of rich texture, lovely balance and flavour with a hint of sweetness.  Made in north eastern Ormoz in Podravje region by three friends (or ‘authors’ as they call themselves on the label) Danilo Snajder, Bozidar Grabovac and Rajko Zlicar who set up the impressive Verus range.  Renski Rizling is ‘real’ Riesling – not Laski.

Podravje, Slovenia:  SIPON FURMINT 2015 Dveri Pax (13%; £9.95 www.thewinesociety.com)
A delicate steely crisp dry Furmint from steep slopes in northern Slovenia, right on the southern Austrian border near Styria.  Furmint is usually found in the Tokay region of Hungary, but in Slovenia it is more delicate tasting more like Sauvignon Blanc with its juicy zesty green fruits.  Dveri Pax are one of the top wineries in the current Slovenian wine renaissance. 

Primorska, Slovenia:  GASPER PINOT GRIGIO 2015 (13%; £12.99 Fine Wine Co, Musselburgh; Drinkmonger, Edinburgh & Pitlochry)   STAR BUY
This is labelled Pinot Grigio, but it tastes more like a rich Alsace Pinot Gris than a crisp lean Italian Pinot Grigio.  Our tasters loved the intense pineapple and grapefruit aromas, very rich textured palate with spicy cinnamon undertones.  Produced from marl and sandstone terraced vineyards right on the north east Italian border, in Slovenia’s Goriska Brda by talented winemaker Darinko Ribolica.

Join Rose’s South West France wine & charcuterie tasting in Edinburgh Thurs 6 July £42 www.rosemurraybrown.com