By Rose Murray Brown MW   Published in The Scotsman 13 July 2024

For years Roussillon in south west France has been overshadowed by its more dominant neighbour to the east, the Languedoc.  Now it is time to discover the dynamic region of Roussillon for itself – where a quiet vinous revolution has been taking place.

Roussillon is unique and distinctive – and so are the wines.  It has a rich and fascinating Catalan heritage and history, this area has only been French since 1659 (The Pyrenees Treaty), previously called North Catalonia.

Its vineyards are in a natural amphitheatre which fans out from its capital Perpignan.  The region is bordered by the Mediterranean to the south, Spain’s border to the west and the dramatic Pyrenees and Corbieres hills to the north and east.

It is a very windy place, there are no less than eight winds here.  The hot dry Tramontane from the west is most persistent, ideal for aerating vines keeping disease at bay aiding the region’s burgeoning organic producers.  Roussillon also has an extraordinary patchwork of schist, limestone and clay soils as complex as Alsace.

According to Fergal Tynan MW, winemaker of Terres Fidele and CEO of Alliance Wine: “Roussillon attracted us as it has an amazing resource of old vines, old terraces and high altitude vineyards”.

It is clearly an exciting place for winemakers with scope to plant high into the Pyrenees foothills, the highest vineyard is 1000m.  Others are reviving abandoned hillside terraces (80% of Roussillon’s vineyards are on slopes) – an attraction for the many outsider investors, like Michel Chapoutier who set up Domaine de Bila-Haut in Roussillon’s Latour de France enclave.

“The challenge now is working with Roussillon’s growers to change their mentality and get them to pick earlier”, explains Tynan.  “Until recently they grew grapes for making Vin Doux Naturel which required higher sugar levels”.

Up to 20 years ago Roussillon was predominantly making Vin Doux Naturel, the famous sweet fortified wines – but today the enchantingly strong sweet Rivesaltes, Maury and Banyuls are diminishing.  Winemakers have switched to making ‘vins secs’ table wines and with such interesting grapes and terroirs, the results are exciting with minerally whites and spicy rich reds.

This switch from fortified to table wine is similar to what has happened recently in Portugal’s Douro valley – so let’s hope Roussillon can make this transition as successfully.  Both regions have similar steep terrain with heroic viticulture where hand picking and pruning is essential as machines cannot be used on steep slopes, so labour costs in both regions are high.

Tastewise Roussillon’s vins secs remind me of the southern Rhone and parts of the Languedoc – with similar grape varieties like Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris alongside Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan, Roussanne and Vermentino.  But what Roussillon can offer with high altitude sites is more freshness, minerality and high natural acidity.

There is a mix of old and new producers here.  One of the oldest is the Jonqueres d’Oriola family at historic Catalan Chateau de Corneilla with current winemaker William Jonqueres d’Oriola (pictured below), the 27^th generation to make wine, who calls himself the ‘Catalan Highlander’ as his Scottish mother is from Fort William.  Back in 1970, when his father Philippe took over the estate, at least 75% of his production was fortified wine, but now William’s production is 95% vins secs.

Newer artisan producers here include David Loiret, originally from Muscadet, of Domaine La Part des Anges (pictured below); Justin Howard-Sneyd MW of Domaine of the Bee and Scotsman Andy Cook of Terrimbo and Mas Cristine.  Longer established is remote Domaine Le Soula in some of the highest vineyards, where South African Wendy Paille makes stunning white, orange and red vins secs.

WHITE WINES

CAVALCADE 2023 Chateau de Corneilla  ***GREAT VALUE***

£11.95 The Wine Society

Savoury herby Cotes du Roussillon white blend of mainly Grenache Blanc alongside Macabeu and Vermentino with gentle oak notes.

CAMI DEL DRAC GRENACHE BLANC/ROUSSANNE 2022 Terres Fidele

£13.99 Juniper Wine Café; Drinkmonger; Fine Wine Portobello

Pear and floral notes with dried herb undertones in this enchantingly fresh elegant white IGP Cotes Catalanes.

L’OVE BLANC GRENACHE GRIS 2019 Chateau de L’Ou

£33 Freds Wines

Where else in the world can you find such pure varietal Grenache Gris?  This is herbal, fresh with great purity and tension; a superb IGP Cotes Catalanes made by high fliers Severine and Philippe Bourrier of Chateau de L’Ou.

RED WINE

SOLEILLA 2021 Terres Fidele  ***STAR BUY***

£25.99 Fine Wine Portobello; Noble Green Wines

Great sense of place here.  Fine aromatics and rich savoury cherry fruits in this Maury-based blend of old vine Grenache Noir, Carignan and Syrah grown on dark black schist.

SWEET WINE

RIVESALTES HORS D’AGE NV Domaine Sol Payre

£46 N/A in UK

Great example of heady sweet oak-aged Grenache Noir-based Vin Doux Naturel with dried figs, macaroons and gingerbread; from Didier and Tatiana Rodriguez, who also have a fine restaurant at their domaine.

Join Rose’s Fine Wine Dinner at Prestonfield 27 November www.rosemurraybrown.com