By Rose Murray Brown MW   Published in The Scotsman 26 October 2024

 

If you like your reds soft, rounded and heartening with flavours of raspberry and spice, try Grenache Noir.  It is not as well-known as other red grapes, but it is one of the world’s most planted – and is having a moment in the sun right now.

 

As a drought resistant late-ripening high-yielding vine which loves basking in the heat, it suits our warming climate.  As a soft approachable red it also suits our desire for less structured fresher juicier styles of red.

 

Grenache is a bit of a changeling.  It can make easy drinking youthful wines, particularly in lesser-known regions like Navarra or Calatayud in Spain, but it can also make some of the most majestic profound intense styles in Spain, California, South Africa and Australia.  It can also make impressive fortified wines, highly prized in Roussillon in south west France for its aged Banyuls.

 

If you love Chateaneuf du Pape, Gigondas or Vacqueyras you will already have tasted Grenache, an important part of their blends alongside Syrah and Mourvedre in these top appellations  – with plenty of good copycat ‘GSM’ blends in the New World.

 

Expect a slight sensation of sweetness with every mouthful – and hefty alcohol level which helps spread the flavours around the mouth.  These are not shy wines, but are perfect winter warmers alongside autumnal stews, spicy tagine, pulled pork or carmelised vegetables.

 

 

 

DRY RED

 

 

Rioja, Spain: RIOJA LARROSA NEGRA GARNACHA TINTA 2021 Vina Izadi (14.5%) ***STAR BUY***

£15-£17.50 NY Wines; Fine Wine Portobello

Popular with tasters for its tobacco and earthy notes, ripe raspberry fruits, dried herb and spice notes – this is so soft rounded and appealing with a long finish.  Impressive 100% Garnacha Rioja for the price.

 

 

Calatayud, Spain: TASTE THE DIFFERENCE OLD VINE GARNACHA 2020 El Escoces Volante (14.5%)

£10.50 Sainsburys

Scotsman Norrel Robertson MW moved to rugged wild Calatayud over 20 years ago, where he tends 50-100 year old Garnacha vines at altitudes up to 1000m.  This great value blend is mainly Garnacha, with 14% Syrah to add more structure and acid bite.  If you normally drink Cotes du Rhone reds you will love this.

 

 

Navarra, Spain: GARNACHA 2023 Vina Zorzal ***STAR VALUE***

£8.50 The Wine Society

Navarra is an incredible source of value Garnacha, where old vines make succulently rich reds.  Vina Zorzal’s version made by Xabi Sanz is hard to beat as a juicy smooth unoaked Garnacha bargain with its crunchy black and red fruits, lightly spiced pepper.

 

 

Barossa Valley, Australia: BUGALUGS GRENACHE 2021 Tim Smith Wines (14.5%)

£18.50 Lea & Sandeman

Good introduction to Barossa Valley, home to some of Australia’s oldest vines.  This unoaked blend from experienced winemaker Tim Smith is predominantly Grenache with a touch of Mourvedre (or Mataro as it is known).  Succulent and sappy with plummy liquorice notes alongside pepper and vanilla.

 

 

Citrusdal, South Africa:  OLD VINE CAREL VAN ZYL GRENACHE NOIR 2023 Piekenierskloof (13%) ***STAR BUY***

£21 Fine Wine Portobello

From the Cape’s best Grenache dry-farmed bushvines grown at 700m high vineyards on Paleisheuwel plateau in the Citrusdal mountains.  Loved its delicacy and complexity combined with Grenache’s signature red berried fruit alongside cinnamon and spice – aged 14 months in 500 litre French oak, oak is subtle and integrated.

 

 

Rhone, France:  GIGONDAS, LES RACINES 2021 Domaine les Pallieres (15%)

£38 Tanners Wine

From the famous Brunier family, who own Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe in Chateauneuf du Pape.  This delicious damson and spice blend of 80% Grenache with the remaining Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette comes from 100 year old vines.  Impressive herby elegant Gigondas.

 

 

Sardinia, Italy: CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA FILIERI ROSSO 2022 Cantina Dorgali (14.5%)

£11.95 The Wine Society

Cannonau is the name of Grenache on the island of Sardinia, which was for four centuries owned by the Spanish.  Today it is the island’s most revered red grape, as it grows well on this sundrenched island – this is a typical example of Cannonau in an unoaked juicy softly tannic style.

 

 

Rioja, Spain: RIOJA PLANTA MAGICA GARNACHA VINAS VIEJAS 2021 de Alto (14.5%) ***STAR BUY***

£22.49 Fine Wine Portobello

Named after the mistletoe in the almond trees surrounding this vineyard near Aldeanueva in Rioja Oriental.  Don’t be fooled by its pale hue, this is beautifully aromatic with rich complex and mouthfilling palate; aged one year in a mix of French oak sizes, but bright red cherry fruits in this modern style Rioja are definitely front and centre.

 

 

Swartland, South Africa: GRENACHE 2022 David & Nadia (13%)

£22 Lay & Wheeler; Justerinis

Winemaker David Sadie is one of the Cape’s most impressive, with the midas touch when it comes to Grenache.  Blend of five vineyards in Swartland which was part whole bunch fermented and matured in concrete and old oak; notes of dried herb and raspberry and lovely soft elegant smooth tannins.

 

 

Santa Barbara, California: GRENACHE 2021 A Tribute to Grace (14.5%)

£52 Lea & Sandeman

Pale and interesting – this might well appeal to those who normally drink Pinot Noir.  It is a mile away from blockbuster Californian Grenache.  Kiwi Angela Osbourne’s unique take on Grenache is from Santa Barbara Highlands at 3500 feet on decomposed granite and clay loam.  Very nuanced, pure and different.

 

 

SWEET FORTIFIED RED

 

Roussillon, France : BANYULS TRADITION PIERRE RAPIDEL 2017 Domaine de la Rectorie (17%)

£19 for 50 cl bt The Wine Society

Grenache as you may never have seen it; a traditional Banyuls aged without replenishing the cask for over five years.  Raisiny, rich with spicy edge, smelling of Christmas and an apt match with figgy pudding.

 

 

Join Rose’s Fine Wine Dinner at Prestonfield on 27 November www.rosemurraybrown.com