By Rose Murray Brown MW   Published in The Scotsman 18 April 2026

“Chenin Blanc is now back in fashion – and is having ‘a bit of a moment’”, announced Fergal Tynan MW of Alliance Wine at the start of his Terroir and Technique Chenin Blanc Masterclass held in Edinburgh recently.

“In particular the quality of Chenin Blanc wines from France’s Loire valley is higher than ever before and offers superb value in comparison to Chardonnays from Burgundy – and this current craze for Chenin is being led by Parisian sommeliers”, explained Tynan.  Chenin Blanc, a ‘classic’ rich textured grape, has for years been overshadowed by Chardonnay – but the grape is in fact far more versatile in style and offers naturally higher acidity which is extremely useful as our temperatures continue to warm.

I would agree with Tynan that Chenin Blanc is one of the world’s truly great grapes producing thrilling sparkling, dry and off-dry whites as well as sensational sweet wines.  Today the dry whites from Anjou, Saumur and Touraine in Loire in particular offer incredible tension, transparency, naturally high acid and ageing potential.  Crystalline and racy one moment, rich textured and profound the next – and the improved technical winemaking know-how in the Loire is adding to this dynamism.

Great value wines they are indeed, with prices rarely above ‘village level’ Burgundy.  This offers wine lovers access to great winemakers too like Romain Guiberteau of Domaine Guiberteau, Stephane Branchereau of Domaine des Forges or Brendan Stater-West in Saumur.  This access to big names is something you just don’t get any more in Burgundy due to its astronomical price rises and tiny wine allocations.

It is also interesting to see a whole raft of young passionate winegrowers in the Loire like Vanessa Cherruau of Chateau de Plaisance, Jean-Baptiste Bonnigal and Stephane Bodet of Domaine Bonnigal-Bodet, Stephanie Debout and Vincent Bertin of Deboutbertin, Charlotte and Thomas Carsin of Terre de l’Elu or Marie Thibault – something you rarely see in Burgundy today.  That is partly because they can afford to buy vineyards here with top vineyard sites in Vouvray, Mountlouis, Saumur or Anjou considerably cheaper than the premier and grand crus of Burgundy.

In the past Loire’s northerly location meant that Chenin Blanc often struggled to ripen.  Now it is benefitting from climate change with superb ripe vintages like 2022 and 2023 in particular currently on our shelves.

“I admit other recent vintages like 2021 and 2024 have been difficult with frost and rain”, explained Tynan, “but as Chenin Blanc buds early it can be exposed to spring frosts – and as a winegrower you will lose your crop occasionally – but it is worth the risk”.

So if you like your dry white wine with purity and precision, with zesty acidity and creamy mouthfeel – I urge you to try Loire’s new styled Chenin Blancs whilst the prices are still reasonable:

 

 

ICONIC VOUVRAY 2024 Famille Bougrier

£11.50 each for 6 bts or £14 bt Majestic Wine

Gentle introduction to Vouvray; pear, apricots and honey with baked apple notes, just off dry with a crisp freshness makes it an ideal aperitif.

SAVENNIERES VB 2023 Domaine des Forges

£17.50 The Wine Society

From west of Angers on Loire’s schistous banks, hints of honey and creamy rich palate – a little fleshier than Savennieres usually offers.

SAVENNIERES LE MOULIN DU GUE 2024 Domaine des Forges

£19.87 Strictly Wine; £24.85 Vino Wines

The Branchereau family have crafted an affordable example of this appellation with whistle-sharp acidity, a touch of minerality and fresh citric fruits.

SAUMUR BLANC 2023 Brendan Stater-West ***STAR BUY***

£27.49 Fine Wine Portobello

Classic Saumur with lean bright fruits, textural richness, creamy and minerally with very good tension – made in a modern style from Oregon-born Chenin Blanc fanatic Stater-West.

ANJOU BLANC, RONCERAY 2023 Chateau de Plaisance

£29.95 Lea & Sandeman; £32.90 Noble Green

Full bodied, broad, oakier, it is almost Burgundian in style with intense citric fruits and saline finish made by young winemaker Vanessa Cherruau.

 

MONTLOUIS SEC LES GRILLONIERES 2022 Alice & Francois Chidaine

£43.82 Fine Wine Portobello

Beautifully made silky weighty oaked style with marked acidity and a touch of flintiness; very elegant example made from organic and biodynamically farmed vines.

TOURAINE AMBOISE SEC, LE CLOCHER 2023 Domaine Bonnigal-Bodet ***STAR BUY***

£29.99 Fine Wine Portobello

Beautifully incisive pure fruits with green apple and honey notes – so characteristic of Chenin Blanc – lively acidity, lovely texture and long minerally finish.

Join Rose’s Wine Tasting at Waterstones, Princes St, Edinburgh West End on Thursday 14 May https://www.waterstones.com/events/an-evening-of-wine-tasting-with-rose-murray-brown/edinburgh-west-end